Day 7, januari 14, Puerto Chacabuco, Chili

If we wake up, we are anchored at Puerto Chacabuco in Chili. We shower and it's announced that we can go ashore using tenders, the lifeboats. If you have booked an excursion, there is a special tender for that and the meeting point, for us, is at 9:45 am on deck 1 at the Mainstage. The tenders will be running continuously until half past 5.
We're going horseback riding and we're considering what to wear. It's difficult to gauge what the weather will be like. We're not exactly sure where we're going. Is it uphill, into the mountains? That always affects the temperature



It's heavily overcast, but after breakfast in the Lido Market, we step outside briefly to test the weather and notice a small patch of blue sky emerging. We cross our fingers for it to expand. We're still early, so we retreat to the cabin to read, but I'm actually too restless for it. Jan is almost done with his book and reads on diligently, so I start writing instead.

Finally, it's time to head to Mainstage 1. There, we receive a sticker for the tender that will take us ashore. All the groups gather in the Mainstage first, and then depart little by little as their numbers are called. When disembarking, your keycard is scanned, and we have to go through security to ensure we're not carrying fresh produce, chemicals, or biological items. Chile is very strict about this. 


Then onto the bus to Los Torreones Lodge. It's a half-hour drive, and the road is much better than in Newfoundland, at least. The region is called Aysén, which in English means "Ice End," so it's at the end of the ice fields, although they are quite far from here. It's said that this region is very remote. There are no roads leading to it. The Carretera Austral, which they started building in 1970, is still not finished. If you want to go to Santiago, you have to fly. There are a few flights per week. You can also go by boat, and if you want to travel by road, you have to go through Argentina. The border is 2 hours away. There are no shopping centers or anything like that here. Just nature (tourism) and agriculture.
At the lodge, we all get helmets. Mine is as usual too big, but it rests on my glasses, so it doesn't fall over my eyes. Then off to the horses. The weather has become beautiful, and we're actually overdressed. So we open our jackets and vests. Jan gets a black roan horse, I don't know its name, and I get a light chestnut, Muchacho. He's a beautiful horse. Turns out, he belongs to the guide's brother and responds well to cues. I'd love to take him home, but he won't fit in the suitcase. We're in a group of 10, their maximum. The horses look good, more on the chubby side than thin. There are also several dogs that cheerfully accompany us the whole ride. They also have cats, cows that we ride through, sheep, goats, and a pig.









Once everyone is mounted, we ride a test loop first to see how everyone is positioned, and then we set off. We stay within the lodge grounds. First, we descend a bit and then it's mostly flat. We don't follow a defined trail in a single file, but rather ride alongside or in front of each other, which adds to the fun. Jan's horse also responds well to cues, and after a while, he suddenly appears next to me. Halfway through, there's a saddle and stirrup check, and photos are taken with our own cameras. Then we return along the other side of the grounds, uphill, and the horses become more alert as they head back home. Suddenly, we notice one of the guides, a young boy, missing. His horse is on the ground, and it's not clear what's wrong with him. Antonia, the other guide, goes to him and stays with him for a while. Later, she rejoins us and explains it's just muscle cramps. We can't shake off the feeling that this might be the version given to tourists, but we'll never know for sure. They take good care of the animals there.

When we return and everyone is safely and happily beside their horse, we're treated to a glass of wine in the lodge, along with some cheese and chips, olives, and such. It's very enjoyable, and it's a pity we have to leave again. 






We take the bus back to the port and board the tender to return to the Oosterdam. Once on board, we have to check-in first (scanning the barcode on the keycard) and then pass our bags and jackets through the scanner. It's as if coming from a village without decent shops automatically makes you a suspect of carrying something dangerous. Later, we find out that this is the standard procedure whenever you come back on board after being ashore.




Since the weather is still lovely—this morning they said it always rains here, which is why it's so green, but not today—we decide to lounge on the back deck (Deck 9, also known as the Lido Deck) on the sun loungers with our books. Drinks are brought to us. 


When we no longer feel like lounging and find the snack after horseback riding insufficient, we head forward to the Dive In, near the indoor pool, and order a delicious burger with the best fries ever. We sit there for a while, contemplating what to do at the end of the cruise. There's a guided walking tour in Montevideo, which sounds appealing, and given Jan's feelings about Buenos Aires after his phone was stolen in Santiago, another big city, we'll likely opt for horseback riding over the pampas with a barbecue afterward. Not a bad alternative.

Back in the cabin, we plug in the various devices to charge, transfer photos to the laptop, and send some home. The last tender must be back by half-past 5. Tonight, we'll set sail again, and an announcement just came that the departure will be "stunning." We're not sure about the exact time, so we decide to dine a bit later in the Dining Room.

It wasn't as late as expected. We watched the departure from Decks 9 and later 10, sailing through the fjords. It was indeed beautiful, although quite wide.



Around half-past 9, we managed to snag a table in the Dining Room, which surprisingly wasn't as difficult as expected. It wasn't busy, and we were seated at a table for 4, just the two of us, on the 1st floor. This restaurant has 2 levels. To get there, you go in the elevator with a staff member who then takes you to your table. We had a lovely one by the window, so we could enjoy the view in the meantime. The food was better than yesterday. For starters, we had duck, a cold dish, and for the main course, Jan had lamb, while I opted for a flat iron steak with chimichurri. I asked for mine rare, and it was indeed cooked as requested. For dessert, we both had a strawberry pavlova.

After dinner, we checked if there was any music playing somewhere. The house band was back in the Rolling Stone Lounge, playing 80's hits. It wasn't crowded. We stayed until the show ended at 9:30 PM and then headed back to the cabin, where we watched an episode of Poldark. It stays light longer now as we head further south.