Day 19, januari 26, Falkland Eilanden

It was indeed a peaceful night until Kevin announced at half past six that we've arrived at the Falklands, which doesn't surprise us as we were scheduled to arrive at 5 o'clock. However, he also mentioned that the tenders will start operating, which does surprise us because the daily program indicates 8 o'clock. We had planned accordingly.

We quickly get ready and arrive at breakfast just after 7. Before our tour, we'd like to explore the city, then take the tour, and perhaps go for a walk afterward. So, we head to the Mainstage, where the meeting point always is, to inquire if we can board the tender earlier. There seems to be some confusion because the staff member informs us that there's no time for the 9 a.m. tour. We see it differently as we planned to join the others ashore at that time, but it seems it won't work out. So, we head back to the cabin, grab our books, and spend the hour in the Crow's Nest. The weather looks quite nice, and from this distance, the island seems promising.  

The Crow's Nest isn't crowded. At 8:45, we gather, and we're in group 15 for the tour, able to board the tender with groups 13 and 14. Port Stanley (the entire Falklands) is English, which is evident from its red phone booths, left-hand driving, currency in pounds, and presence of pubs. We take a minivan to the Bluff Cove Penguin Rookery, a half-hour drive, with Ally as our driver. She tells stories with dry English humor. The island is indeed as beautiful as imagined—very rugged. Ally was only 7 when her family moved here from England, and she found herself in the midst of the Falklands War. All she saw were tanks and trucks, a stark contrast to the bustling yet peaceful Stanley that we're seeing now. Along the way, we pass by stunning rock formations, some sheep (Merino and another breed), Belted Galloway cows, and vast open spaces.

The Crow's Nest

At the penguin colony, located on private land, we are greeted by ranger Richard, who provides some information and explains the rules. There are small white flags marking boundaries, and we're instructed to stay behind them, although the penguins don't have to. They are close to the penguins, so they are not at all disruptive. Richard mentions that there are King penguins (hooray) and Gentoo penguins, and if we're very lucky, we might spot Magellanic penguins, although he hasn't seen any in 7 years. There's also a large group of Kelp Geese, with white males and brown females. We have 2 hours to wander around and are expected at the Sea Cabbage Café afterward.

It all looks amazing right away, and it gets even better when we realize there's quite a large group of King penguins. We're thoroughly enjoying every moment. The weather keeps improving, although the wind is a bit of a nuisance, but that's typical here. Just two days ago, it was so strong that the cruise ships couldn't even anchor. We're certainly lucky! It's around 15 degrees Celsius now, but in the sun, it feels delightful.

The King penguins are magnificent and incredibly amusing. There's a pair strolling around the entire area together, and later they even lay down among the Gentoo penguins. They must be on vacation! There are still a few small chicks around, although most of them are already molting. Unfortunately, that doesn't make them look any better. The same goes for the Gentoo penguins, of course. We've also spotted some Turkey Vultures scanning the colony, eyeing the penguin chicks as potential meals.

Further down the beach, where we can't reach, there's one penguin that has found something to eat and is enjoying its meal. It's quite far away, so not ideal for a photo, especially not in this wind.

Elsewhere, there's a lone penguin with two chicks and two slightly larger chicks. Vultures are circling around them. Hopefully, they'll make it through. One of the vultures has found an egg but can't grab it or crack it open. The ranger is there and mentions that caracaras are much more adept at this. They pick it up and drop it to break it open. 

Then we head towards the beach. It's a completely different environment, but equally amazing. Here, flowering succulent plants grow among the rocks, and there are also penguins scattered along the shoreline and amongst the stones. By now, the sky has turned almost perfectly blue, and you could easily imagine yourself on a tropical island. The sea is a vibrant shade of blue.

The penguins on the beach look fantastic as well. We invent whole stories to go along with them and sometimes end up laughing hysterically. Here, it's the Gentoo penguins that steal the show, although the King penguins also have their moments. Due to the wind, combined with zooming in, not all the videos and photos turned out as expected.

We also take a quick look inside the gift shop, which doubles as a small museum. There are some nice items, but they're a bit pricey for our taste. So, we decide to pass on buying anything. Before leaving, we make a stop at the "Best Toilets in the Southern Ocean," and indeed, they look impeccable.

I wander along the beach for a bit while Jan stays seated due to his ankle trouble. I come across a few remarkable shells, one of which has a mother-of-pearl top, though it doesn't show well in the photo. There are also a couple of mussels, strikingly yellow in color.

Then Ally returns with the bus, and we head back to the town. Along the way, she stops a couple of times so we can take photos of the cows, the rocks, and the beautiful landscape.

Stanley is truly very English, but quite crowded with tourists from, at that moment, 3 cruise ships. We visit the cathedral, which is not very richly decorated but still remarkable. Plaques for the deceased line the walls, there is a tapestry depicting 500 years of the Falklands, a memorial book for those fallen in 1982, and above the door, another memorial adorned with flags.. 

Next to the church stands an arch adorned with 2 whale jaws. We enter a gift shop and find something for Idse. Then, in search of something to eat, which proves unsuccessful as everything is fully occupied. So, we board the tender and head to the back deck to enjoy the sun.

At Jim's cabin, there's an A4 sheet with a QR code and link, so we can upload the photos before March 1st. So that's going to work out. Just as we're getting settled with salad, some meat for Jan, and for me, the delicious bread they had in the Dining Room earlier this week, accompanied by a Budweiser, the sky starts to cloud over and it begins to drizzle slightly. We quickly move everything under the covered area, but shortly after, it becomes too chilly, and we retreat indoors.

In the cabin, we review the photos, Jan reads, and I write, and then the sun reappears. So far, it's been a fantastic day. It's now quarter to 5, and the last tender was supposed to leave at half past 4, so I expect we'll be departing soon.

At quarter past 5, it's time to go. The captain announces that it'll be a lovely departure with penguins (although they'll likely be in the distance) on the starboard side. We position ourselves on the aft deck, and the weather is still nice until we turn a bit and suddenly find ourselves fully exposed to the wind. It makes for a nice picture and a memorable experience, but also leaves us with cold hands. There are two fishing vessels, probably squid fishers, which bystanders say are Korean. We can't see the flag clearly, but they're waving the Dutch flag at the back. We also pass a small pilot boat, which responds with a beep 😂 - like a mother duck with her ducklings.

Our Antarctica Expert Team

De tenders worden weer binnengehaald

Warming up inside the Lido where it's not crowded. Although we had lunch late, we decide to eat again. There's plenty of room now. A table for 2 by the window in the sun. We opt for Asian cuisine again and succumb to dessert once more.

In the cabin, we read first and then watch 2 episodes of Poldark before turning out the lights. It's getting dark early tonight. Clearly, we're heading north again.

Next day