Day 13,januari 20, At Sea

I didn't sleep well due to the ship's considerable rocking. I sleep better in a calm bed 😄. After showering, we fill the laundry bag, well, more like a little bag, and have it washed for a whopping $30.

At breakfast, we're first greeted by Marianne, and later Bob walks by and makes brief conversation. Two days ago, Ron mentioned that Ann was ill, coughing. Now, we estimate she's between 82 and 87, so that never sounds good.

The ship is filled with "art," much of it related to the Dutch East India Company (VOC)


On our way to the Mainstage where Jim gives a lecture about penguins at 10 o'clock and Neil about marine mammals at 11 o'clock, we run into Ron, Bob, and Nancy. Bob also just asked about Ann's condition, and Ron tells us that she tested positive for COVID. He mentioned that the blood test cost $1300. We wonder why they would need to do a blood test, but anyway. We hope it doesn't lead to further complications, like the whole ship having to go into quarantine, and that she gets better soon.

Jim delivers an interesting story outside about halfway through the Drake Passage. Following that, Neil also gives a captivating talk. We hope to catch sight of at least some of the wildlife he mentioned: 4 species of penguins, about 6 species of sea lions and seals, including the rarely seen Ross seal. If you manage to spot one and show him a photo, he'll treat you to a beer 😄. Additionally, there are about 6 whales, although 3 of them are highly unlikely. The most probable sightings are orcas, humpbacks, and minkes. He also used some photos from John Weller, a friend of his, in his presentation. They're gorgeous; we can't match that 😞. He also talks about IAATOInternational Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, 
IAATO is a member organization founded in 1991 to advocate and promote the practice of safe and environmentally responsible private-sector travel to the Antarctic.
 After the lectures, we wanted to head to the Crow's Nest since it's quite comfortable there, but it's bustling with activity near the elevators, naturally, as everyone exits the Mainstage at the same time. We decide to take the stairs from the 3rd to the 10th floor. It's good exercise for us. Unfortunately, there's no space in the Crow's Nest either, so we head back to the cabin. There, we realize that we need to specify the items for laundry, such as the number of T-shirts, shirts, etc., so we take care of that first.
The captain just announced that we crossed the 60th parallel at 3 a.m. tonight, officially marking our entry into Antarctica. 


Around 3 p.m. this afternoon, we will be at Deception Island, where we are only allowed to sail around it and not enter the crater due to the size of the ship. We hope that the weather clears up a bit because at the moment, it's heavily overcast with fog.
By around 1 p.m., it seems to be clearing up a bit. Fingers crossed that it continues.


This afternoon, there's no program that appeals to us, so we're having a quiet day. However, we hope that from 3 p.m. onwards and in the coming days, it won't be quiet anymore because there's a lot to see, and announcements are regularly made that wildlife is spotted or something similar. Jim warned that the next few days will be tough, but definitely worth it.

The brief appearance of the sun was short-lived. It's getting darker now than a moment ago, but there's slightly less fog. We continue to keep our fingers crossed. We'll have lunch at the Lido and then put on our jackets, gloves, and hats because we're almost there. 

Today, we are at point C on the map

We first look on deck 3, and then it is announced that the bow is open, so we head there. Initially, the island is quite difficult to see due to the clouds and mist, compounded by the fact that we are quite far away. However, things improve—the mist clears, a bit of sun breaks through, and the clouds lift in places. We also get closer to the island, although it's still quite a distance away. The temperature is chilly but manageable. The captain mentions whale activity, but we only spot a spout far off in the distance. There are also penguins on the black lava beach, but they are only visible with binoculars or a strong zoom lens. Some of them dart through the water like dolphins. They are incredibly fast!










photo Jim

photo Jim

entrance to the crater

We circle around the island and with that, the wind shifts direction. It becomes noticeably colder, at least it feels that way. We zip up our jackets higher and put on the hoods. The opening to the crater is clearly visible, but what lies beyond it remains shrouded in mist, giving it a mysterious aura. A bit further around the corner, the captain announces that everyone needs to head inside and the bow will be closing. We've been outside for nearly an hour. There's a significant wind, and it's chilly, but we've been fortunate as shortly after, as we continue sailing at 17 knots (about 31.48 km per hour) over the Bellinghausen Sea, the weather deteriorates again, and the mist returns.

We head back to our cabin to warm up, read for a bit, and around 5 o'clock, we head to the Pinnacle Bar for a beer and a Bee's Knees cocktail. When those are finished, we wait in our cabin until it's time for our appointment at the Pinnacle Grill at 8 o'clock. In the meantime, we try to use the internet, but it's painfully slow and keeps cutting out. It feels like we're back in 1999 or something.

The Pinnacle Grill turns out to be a delightful surprise. It's a truly luxurious setting, and it looks very inviting. Our waiter is Indonesian and speaks Dutch, which is amusingly unexpected. During Kevin's interview with the chef, he asked what his favorite dishes are from the entire ship, and one of them was the candied bacon from the Pinnacle, so we decide to have that as an appetizer. First, we're served bread with two spreads. The bacon is presented very creatively, hanging on hooks, and it tastes delicious indeed. The combination of salty, sweet, and slightly sour from the pickles and lemon is a delightful find. For the main course, we opt for surf & turf, with Jan choosing a ribeye and me opting for a filet mignon. With an additional $10 charge, we get a lobster tail each. As side dishes, we choose fries and sautéed mushrooms. If we had known the quantities we would receive, we wouldn't have ordered them. One of each would have been plenty for the two of us. But then comes dessert. We opt for the Not So Classic Baked Alaska, and my goodness, it's enormous. I forget to take a photo out of sheer surprise. It would have easily sufficed if we were sharing it between three people. Even then, we would have been quite satisfied. Everything tastes excellent, and we head back to the cabin with a feeling of having had a truly special evening out.
Candied bacon

Filet mignon with lobster tail

I had slept poorly and encountered the "man with the hammer," so the last half hour to three-quarters of an hour, I had to pep myself up to make it to the end. The sugar in the Baked Alaska definitely helped with that 😂.